If you ask Sam Roling what year he moved the bakery from Center City to its current Elkins Park location, he’ll pause, look up thoughtfully at something in the room, and ask himself (aloud) the age of his youngest son. It was more than 30 years ago, but Sam measures time in terms of his family of three children and 15 grandchildren. Family is everything to him. 

I wanted to know Sam’s thoughts about the secret of Roling’s enduring success. There was a time, not so very long ago, when Philadelphia’s mom-’n’-pop bakeries numbered in the hundreds. Only a few remain in business today, and Roling’s is one of them. The answers I took away from our meandering conversation numbered three. 

First, there’s the science of it. Sam and his wife, Rita, began reading and collecting books about baking early on. It’s possible they have — sitting right upstairs from the bakery — the largest private library of cookbooks and food science and chemistry volumes in the area. This is no surprise once you learn that Rita Roling is a graduate of Temple University’s library science program. 

Next, a most cost-efficient but seldom trusted fundamental: word-of-mouth advertising. In the case of delicious things to eat, this becomes especially powerful. Why waste good dollars on any other type of messaging if word of mouth is bringing in plenty of business? Just focus on the product.

But the most important ingredient — “vessel” would be a more accurate metaphor — is Rita Roling. Sam looks you straight in the eye when he speaks to you, leaving no doubt about this. 

If you get to visit the shop, stepping into this very cozy, heavenly-smelling store, you may feel transported to an eastern European village, mid-20th century or earlier. Aptly described on its website as “a modest enterprise started in a bubby’s kitchen,” Roling’s tiny space is both authentic and whimsical, not to mention visually intriguing. 

Glass-encased shelves present a constantly changing variety of baked goods: elegant strudels and rugelach; thick, moist brownies; cookies of all shapes, sizes and ingredients. Challah. Knishes and bagels about which the most knowledgeable aficionados will tell you solemnly: They are the best you can get in all of Philadelphia and its surrounding counties. The cakes are like none I have ever seen anywhere — custom-made layer cakes that reflect the formal art education of their creator, Sam and Rita’s daughter. 

I sampled a knish. Oh my. Wikipedia calls it snack food, but for me, it’s more like the centerpiece of a meal — one of those savory comfort foods that endure as a memory of survival during times when people were all too familiar with starvation as a way of death. The Italian counterpart would be the arancino — a rice ball, in good times having a small protein center, breaded and fried, delicious and filling. 

I ended up bringing a large bag of sugar cookies home. They quickly disappeared. As they melt in your mouth they scream “butter” to your taste buds. But Roling’s is kosher parve — no dairy. What’s the secret? I could only get a sly smile from Sam as an answer. Rita, I concluded. I hope I get to meet her in person some day!